I have so much to share with you! That's the only sentence I remember from the two sides of A4 I spent an hour drafting today at the clinic for this blog. Typically, I left it inside my Geographical magazine in the second drawer in the clinic. By the time I'd remembered this, I was already ten minutes down the road with my regular Tuesday group of school kids who I walk home every week, and I'd endured a 'conversation' (more him talking at me in Lugandan and me looking very confused and slightly intimidated) with a drunk man who I'd had no desire to see again! So, I will start over, but I'm afraid that my forgotten draft will be so much more moving, beautifully written and succinct than is.
As you may know, I spent last week back at John's in Kampala with mum and the CRED team she was leading. The team were teaching a load of kids in the Acholi Quarters for five days who otherwise wouldn't have any schooling, and so I tagged along, eager to see old friends. The week didn't disappoint - the team did great, and I loved being back with the ladies and many of the kids I had taught for two months. I enjoyed it so much that my original plan of being in Kampala two days extended to the whole week. It was such a delight, seeing the kids with such happy smiles getting attention and love and education when they often get none. And the fact that I was remembered by so many was extremely touching!
On the Thursday night, a Canadian woman who has been working in the Acholi Quarters for the last three years cam to John's house for dinner with us. She works in partnership with Ugandan there and they provide holistic trauma counselling, discipleship, job training, relocation and so on for the Acholi people. She came to share just why this community needed these things so much. I knew some of the history she shared with us - of the twenty year war in the north started in the '80s led by Joseph Koni, of the horrific things the Acholi people suffered which caused so many to flee, some ending here in Kampala. On my first Sunday at Joy's, one of the oldest boys sat down with me and shared some stories of what his people suffered. But last week, names and faces were put to these stories which always makes them so much more powerful, because they're personal.
One story we were told was the story of Bob (but I've changed his name). Bob and his brother had been sent to live in Kampala when Joseph Koni and the Lord's Resistance Army started their rebellion. However they had to travel back to their village in the north when they needed money and so forth. One day, they did this and on arriving home, their father told them that they could not sleep in the house tonight as it wasn't safe, they had to sleep in the bush. For the rest of the day they visited old friends and had a great time, so much so that they ended up staying at their friends house instead of doing as their father had told them. That night, the LRA came and abducted Bob, his brother and a group of their friends. They made them walk for miles in the dark, and hours later they stopped and split them into two groups - one of which would live whilst the other would die. Bob was in the group who were forced, for fear of their own death, to watch whilst Bob's brother and friends in the other half were hacked to death right in front of them. Horrendous right! It got worse. The rebels then got a huge cooking pot and started to boil the various pieces of the boys. Then, they told the surviving group that they would now be the murderers of their friends as they were going to eat them. Thankfully, the government soldiers turned up before this command could be forced into reality. As the fighting started, Bob ran.
He is doing much better now after taking part in trauma counselling! Bob's is just one of four stories we heard that night, which reduced most of the team to tears, and these are a drop in the sea of Acholi people in the Quarters. The fact that people like Bob have lived through such harrowing things, and yet are being healed and are going on to live and love and smile and work and move on is quite extraordinary to me! I feel so privileged to call some of the people in that community friends, and to have spent time with such incredibly strong people.
Life is much safer now for the Acholi people, even in the north there is peace again, but many in the Acholi Quarters still have to struggle to make a living. One of the main sources of income in this shanty town is found in the three quarries surrounding it which is where so many of the women and children are found working. Harriet is the 'head' (if that is the right word) of the group of women in the bead making cooperative John works with, and so the teams work with. She used to work in the quarry (did so for 17 years or so, I think) and according to her she would earn 1000 shillings a day. To is the equivalent of 25p! To double her earnings, she would take all her children to work with her. But many of the women have found a safer (both financially and physically) way to make more than a few coins - through marking rolled paper beads. In contrast to the quarry, one single stranded bracelet sells for 1000; a broad bracelet costs 2000, which is equivalent to keeping a child away from the quarry for a day. After a lovely evening of shopping by the team and a few calculations, mum and I worked out that the total amount we had all purchased worked out at the amount one woman would earn working at the quarry for almost four years - we essentially had brought enough to keep one woman from this dangerous work for four years, or a woman and her family for two years! They are powerful beads!
Sadly, one of the boys I used to teach, a wonderful boy called Maundy (the one in the blue top) didn't make it to all five sessions the team ran last week. When I asked why he hadn't come for a couple of days, he said he'd been in the quarry, and that he couldn't go that day either because he was babysitting (he was one of the ones I would teach who always had a tiny baby on their hip). It broke my heart! He should at least be allowed a week of being a child, he's only 10 years old.
Thanks to all the beads being bought by various teams and other people who are buying them, there are going to be fewer Maundy's and more and more Dan's and Morgan's who's mums can now afford to send them to school. We just need to buy more beads I guess!
I told you I had a lot to say! I'm over halfway though. So I'm back at Joy's for the next two and a half weeks. My week in Kampala was wonderfully refreshing, despite being extremely full on compared to my rural way of life, but isn't that always the case when you change company and surroundings, especially when you're with family and the amazing Acholi people! As I was going to bed on Saturday night, I saw the baby bat was back, this time drowning in a bucket of water. The girl who stays in this house with me was just coming in, so I told her in a 'what should be do' sort of way. She got the bucked and threw the water with the bay outside and then shut and locked the door. What? Africans do not like bats apparently, and don't have the 'try and save a baby anything' thought process I thought was pretty common. So, sadly, after ten days of not being seen, the bat has probably met its end with some night hunter, or by the chickens who invade out compound during the day.
I got another culture shock on Sunday as I was about to go to church. Church allegedly starts at 9.30am (African time), but I don't go down until the main service starts at 11am. Joy called me over into the garden when I walked past on my way, and told me to stay with her a while. All very odd! We were basically hidden from sight with banana trees. It turns out that the kids (barely classed as kids - the youngest is 11, the oldest claims to be 17 but we think he's at least 19) were being beaten because they were late to church. They were very late, an hour and a half, but to be beaten for that?! I was so shocked! And troubled. This is one of the aspects of Ugandan culture which I cannot understand. I have heard a load about beatings in school, but never before in churches! Shouldn't the churches be the example, the light in the dark place? But Ugandans fully accept beatings as a form of discipline; it's not even questioned! It's their culture, and they don't even see that it's wrong. (I would like to say that this is the first time I have ever seen beating actually in this home, and Joy tries to discourage it as best as she can). One of the girls came home from school one day having been beaten on her elbow. When we asked why, she said they were beaten for every question they got wrong in a maths test... She got one wrong! Isn't that praised in our society, only dropping one mark, getting almost full marks. But she was beaten instead. She's in year 5! They all say that beatings are much more frequent in primary schools because the kids are stubborn, so of course they should be beaten. But one of the boys here goes to a private school nearby, he's 18 and in year 12 (equivalent). His whole class was beaten the other week because one boy was acting up. He's 18!
I could go on and on about all the cultural differences I ave experienced here, but I think this is more than enough for now. I know it's not the cheeriest blog ever, but you are getting a very real insight into life here, as well as the hope and power of our actions in buying and in how we spend our time. But, the make it all a bit more jolly, here is one of my all time favourite kids who I love dearly, Innocent. If he can't make you smile, you're heartless! Love you all.